Where You Slow Down

  When most people think of Otaru, they envision the romantic night views of the canal or the charming atmosphere of the Music Box Museum. However, if you turn your gaze just a little away from the bustling tourist spots, you will find Asarigawa , a tranquil hot spring village that feels as if a forest spirit might appear at any moment. While the uphill terrain makes it difficult to reach on foot, a short bus ride offers scenic views that lead you to a pristine village where the very air feels different. The accommodation I chose, Hotel Musashitei , was a hidden gem. Instead of the coldness of a modern hotel, it offered the warmth of a traditional Japanese ryokan and the essence of Omotenashi (heartfelt hospitality). Getting There and First Impressions: Thoughtful Transportation Hotel Musashitei offers various access options to suit any traveler’s schedule. It takes about 20 minutes by car from Otaru Station and approximately 15 minutes by bus from Otaru Chikko Station. Pro Tip: ...

For many travelers dreaming of Japan, visiting an onsen is often at the top of the must-do list. However, for those with tattoos where each one tells a personal story, the entrance to a traditional onsen can feel unexpectedly cold and unwelcoming. In Japan’s conservative onsen culture, signs reading “No Tattoos” often dampen that initial excitement. I, too, longed for a quiet retreat, yet spent considerable time searching for a place where I wouldn’t be turned away simply because of my tattoos. That search eventually led me to Hoheikyo Onsen in Hokkaido.   Located deep in the tranquil forests of Jozankei, away from Sapporo’s bustling city center, Hoheikyo Onsen offers a warm and reassuring answer for tattooed travelers. More than just a scenic hot spring, it is widely known as a tattoo-friendly sanctuary that welcomes guests without prejudice. The freedom to soak in the hot spring exactly as you are, without hiding or explaining yourself, alone makes Hoheikyo well worth visiting. F...

Wakkanai is the northernmost city in Japan. Even among Japanese travelers, it is often seen as the edge of the country, a place many dream of visiting at least once. Surprisingly, however, the city also attracts a steady number of international visitors. When I visited, I noticed quite a few travelers from Taiwan, and I still remember briefly chatting with them while taking photos for each other at Cape Soya.   The presence of international travelers carries a certain meaning. It reflects the diversity of cultures and backgrounds drawn to this remote city, and naturally, that includes travelers with tattoos. So after arriving in Wakkanai, the very first question that came to my mind was this:  “Is there a sento in this northernmost city that allows tattoos?”    Fortunately, the answer is yes. Located not far from Wakkanai Station and Wakkanai Port, Minato no Yu Onsen (みなとの湯温泉) is one of the rare day-use public baths in Wakkanai where guests with tattoos are wel...

Just as humanity has sought to conquer the world’s highest peak, Mount Everest, and reach the poles of the Earth, traveling to the northernmost point of Japan offers travelers a quiet but satisfying sense of achievement. Wakkanai, located at the very top of Hokkaido, lies so far north that parts of it share a similar latitude with Russia. Thanks to this geography, Hokkaido enjoys a refreshingly mild summer climate, free from the oppressive heat common in large cities. If you long to escape urban swelter and experience genuine cool air, why not journey to Wakkanai, the far edge of Japan? Wakkanai is Japan’s northernmost city, a mysterious coastal town where deep snow blankets the streets in winter and massive drift ice floats along the shoreline. Across the sea lies Russia’s Sakhalin Island, lending the city an atmosphere distinctly different from Japan’s major urban centers. Instead of neon lights and crowds, Wakkanai offers endless horizons and profound stillness, broken only by sharp...

When traveling through Hokkaido, there often comes a moment when you find yourself more drawn to the places where locals actually live their lives than to the flashy tourist landmarks. Strangely enough, it is these understated spaces, rather than the picture-perfect scenery, that tend to linger longest in one's memory.  If you are starting from Sapporo Station, it is a two-hour drive, or a quick five-minute taxi ride from JR Date-Monbetsu Station. Since there are no bus stops nearby, catching a taxi is your best bet. While the accessibility is decent, the surrounding landscape is notably peaceful. Instead of bustling shopping streets, you are greeted by low buildings, wide open plains, and the characteristic sense of "emptiness" that defines Hokkaido’s scenery. Even the journey toward the hot spring begins to loosen the knots in your mind. It’s a place that suits the simple intention of washing away the day's fatigue without the burden of high expectations.     The wa...