Tattoo-Friendly Onsen Near Sapporo: Hoheikyo Onsen

For many travelers dreaming of Japan, visiting an onsen is often at the top of the must-do list. However, for those with tattoos where each one tells a personal story, the entrance to a traditional onsen can feel unexpectedly cold and unwelcoming. In Japan’s conservative onsen culture, signs reading “No Tattoos” often dampen that initial excitement. I, too, longed for a quiet retreat, yet spent considerable time searching for a place where I wouldn’t be turned away simply because of my tattoos. That search eventually led me to Hoheikyo Onsen in Hokkaido.

 

Traditional onsen scenery in Otaru as a visual reference for travelers


Located deep in the tranquil forests of Jozankei, away from Sapporo’s bustling city center, Hoheikyo Onsen offers a warm and reassuring answer for tattooed travelers. More than just a scenic hot spring, it is widely known as a tattoo-friendly sanctuary that welcomes guests without prejudice. The freedom to soak in the hot spring exactly as you are, without hiding or explaining yourself, alone makes Hoheikyo well worth visiting. From the entrance onward, there are no requests to cover tattoos and no uncomfortable glances. That sense of ease relaxes the mind even before the body. Here, tattoos are not treated as exceptions to the rules, but simply as part of who you are.

Getting There

There are several ways to reach Hoheikyo Onsen. If you’ve rented a car, it’s about a 50-minute drive from central Sapporo via Route 230, covering roughly 30 kilometers. As you approach Mount Muine, the surrounding forest scenery gradually replaces city views, making the drive itself a calming experience.

For those without a car, public transportation is also available. According to the official website, you can take a Jotetsu bus from the Makomanai Station bus terminal on the Nanboku Subway Line, reaching the onsen in about 70 minutes. There is also a free shuttle bus departing from near Makomanai Junior High School, allowing you to choose the most convenient option for your itinerary.

If possible, visiting on a weekday or earlier in the day is recommended, as weekends and peak seasons can become crowded. Due to the open-air nature of the rotenburo, temperatures may feel different depending on the season, especially in winter, so dressing warmly for the walk between facilities is advised.

About the Hot Spring Water

The true value of Hoheikyo Onsen lies in its commitment to 100% free-flowing natural spring water (Gensen Kakenagashi). Fresh water is drawn directly from deep underground and poured into the baths without dilution or recycling. Even Japanese onsen experts praise this method, often saying that “one genuine onsen is worth more than ninety-nine artificial ones.”

Because the water is not exposed to air for long periods, it remains rich and gentle on the skin, melting away travel fatigue almost instantly. Hoheikyo’s open-air baths are also among the largest in Japan, offering sweeping panoramic views of Hokkaido’s nature as it transforms with the seasons. In winter, soaking in steaming water while snow quietly falls, known as yukimi-buro, is an unforgettable experience. The locations of the men’s and women’s baths are rotated regularly as well, giving repeat visitors a slightly different perspective each time.

More Than Just an Onsen: The Famous Curry

Hoheikyo’s global popularity isn’t due to its hot springs alone. Inside the onsen complex, the rich aroma of Indian curry adds an unexpected charm. Freshly baked naan from a tandoor oven and deeply flavored curries often turn first-time skepticism, "Curry at an onsen?", into genuine praise.

The restaurant offers a wide variety of options, including pork, lamb, chicken, and vegetable curries, making it easy to find something to suit your taste. They also serve soba made from buckwheat sourced directly from local farms. With main dishes generally priced between ¥1,100 and ¥1,400, it’s a satisfying way to complete your onsen visit.

 

Peaceful Japanese hot spring atmosphere for illustrative purposes in Hokkaido

 

Final Thoughts

Hoheikyo Onsen may not be trendy or luxurious, but for tattooed travelers, it is a rare place of quiet acceptance, one that requires no explanations or apologies. Immersed in hot spring water surrounded by Hokkaido’s deep forests, a gentle realization settles in: being exactly who you are is more than enough. If you’re searching for genuine rest during your trip to Japan, Hoheikyo Onsen is a choice that will linger in your memory long after you leave.

For the most accurate and up-to-date information on hours, transportation, and facilities, be sure to check Hoheikyo Onsen’s official website before your visit, as operations may vary by season.

Practical Information

  • Opening Hours: 10:00 AM – 10:30 PM (Last admission 9:45 PM, open year-round)

  • Admission Fee: ¥1,300 (Adults)

  • Towel Rental: Small towel ¥220 / Large towel ¥500

  • Lounge Use: Free

  • Private Lounge: ¥3,800 for 3 hours (¥1,000 per additional hour)

  • Tattoo Policy: Accepted based on consistent visitor reviews

     

     

     

      * Note: Images are AI-generated and used for conceptual reference only  

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