Bessho no Yu: A Tattoo-Friendly Bathhouse in Kiyokawa Village, Kanagawa

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If you’re looking to step away from Tokyo’s constant noise and reconnect with quiet nature, Kiyokawa Village(清川村) in northwestern Kanagawa Prefecture is a surprisingly satisfying choice. True to its name meaning “clear stream” this small village has preserved its natural landscape rather than replacing it with concrete and high-rise buildings. It is also the only municipality in Kanagawa that still holds the administrative title of a village, which says a lot about its scale and atmosphere. Instead of skyscrapers, you’ll find forested ridgelines, winding valleys, and a calm rhythm of life that feels noticeably slower than the city.  

Nearly 90% of Kiyokawa Village is covered by forest, nestled within the Tanzawa mountain range. Each season brings a distinct mood: fresh green leaves in spring, deep lush forests in summer, vivid autumn foliage, and quiet snow-covered scenery in winter. Rather than a crowded tourist destination, Kiyokawa feels like a place where time naturally decelerates. The moment you arrive, your thoughts seem to slow down as well making it an ideal escape for those seeking rest rather than stimulation.

 


One landmark closely associated with Kiyokawa Village is Miyagase Dam, located along the Miyagase River. Its sheer scale is impressive on its own, but visiting during a scheduled water release is particularly memorable. For about six minutes, an overwhelming volume of water is discharged, creating a powerful and almost hypnotic scene. Nearby cafés even serve curry inspired by the dam itself, adding a small but charming touch to the experience. After exploring the dam, there’s no better way to unwind than soaking in a bath back in the village.

In Japan, finding a bathhouse or onsen that allows tattoos can still be challenging. That’s what makes Bessho no Yu (別所の湯) so special. This tattoo-friendly bathhouse is operated by the village as a public facility, and unlike many privately run onsen, it does not restrict entry based on visible tattoos. Whether you have small fashion tattoos or larger pieces, you can bathe here without concern. The fact that it’s a public, community-run facility gives it a unique and welcoming character that sets it apart from commercial hot springs.

 

 

The water at Bessho no Yu is heated groundwater drawn from the Tanzawa mountains, known for being gentle on the skin and pleasantly soft. Inside, the facilities are thoughtfully designed: an open-air bath with expansive views, a fragrant hinoki (Japanese cypress) bath, a sauna for easing muscle fatigue, and a refreshing cold bath to finish. The outdoor bath, in particular, offers uninterrupted views of the surrounding mountains, allowing you to fully absorb the changing seasons while soaking in warm water.

The bathhouse is open not only to local residents but also to visitors. Admission for adults is 500 yen, making it very affordable. The facility is closed on Mondays and operates from 10:00 AM to 9:00 PM, with last entry at 8:00 PM, so planning your visit time is important. Access is straightforward: from either Shinjuku or Yokohama Station, take a train to Hon-Atsugi Station, then transfer to a bus bound for Kiyokawa Village. The bus ride takes approximately 40 minutes.


 

A village surrounded by living nature, and a bathhouse where tattoos are not a barrier, Bessho-no-Yu in Kiyokawa Village offers more than just a place to bathe. It’s a space where you can slow down, warm your body, and gently reset your mind. Soaking in a tattoo-friendly bath while gazing out at mountain scenery is an experience that lingers quietly, long after the journey ends.

 

- Business Hours: 10:00 AM – 09:00 PM (Closed on Mondays)

- Admission Fee: 500 yen 

 

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